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A couple of substitute oil filters for Ducatis, but do they work as well as the original?

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SidecarFlip

I probably know a bit more about oil filters and oil that the average 'Joe Six pack' does......

First off, 90% of the oil filters you purchase anywhere other than OEM's are made from the same materials. The majority of end caps are made in Cleveland, Ohio, on the west side by a company that does nothing but stamp them out...by the truckload. The also make the inner can that retains the filter media. That can is machined by what's called a perforating die. The company also makes the outer shell or can from 50X AKDQ (Aluminum Killed Drawing Quality) Hot rolled steel sheet. Some manufacturers like Fram, Hastings and Wix add their proprietary filter media... 'nanofiber' or whatever and then the assembled filter goes into a machine that performs a double crimp between the outer can and the top plate while the anti-drain back/check valve is inserted. Every so often, a filter is pulled and it's pressure checked..the mechanical crimp must be pressure tight. The top gasket, usually synthetic heat resistant rubber comes from another manufacturer and is added and the filters are painted their manufacturers respective colors and the printing applied. Then the filters are boxed and packaged for shipment. Filters are a lot like mouthwash.....same origin, same machine...different colors and packaging.

Here is the rub. Different manufacturers specify different amounts of their proprietary filter media in their filters. Case in point, Fram at one time was scrimping on media...and consequently got caught up in some undesirable publicity a few years back...it was extensively hashed out on many forums...to me, it's not relevant to this post anyway.

Different manufacturers extol the virtues of their respective oil filters almost like Patent Medicine...However, there are only a couple of important points with any filter that filters a liquid (you notice I didn't say 'any'). Air filters are different... The filter must have a specific relief valve setting in 'psi' relative to the engine specification and it must filter particles down to a certain 'micron' rating, again pre-determined by the engine manufacturer. Finally, the upper end cap must have the center (usually outlet) hole threaded properly to fit the engine's attachment nipple and the upper end cap must have enough holes of a diameter large enough to pass the maximum rated flow that the engines oil pump will deliver at operating temperature.

Some OEM's especially those off shore, contract with firms in their respective countries to make their filters, but the process is still the same.

In my opinion, 99&44/100ths of all oil filters are just fine. What makes the difference is the oil you use and the oil change frequency. Sadly, there is a tremendous amount of hype about oil, almost as much as about filters and I'm not going into that here except to say that so long as you use oil that is certified by the API (American Petroleum Institute) or is JASO (Japanese Automotive Standards Association) certified in the proper grade and designation that the OEM specifies as well as adhering to the recommended change intervals, if, you have a lubrication related failure and the engine is in warranty and you haven't fooled with timing, rev limiters, cooling or changed any operating parameters and the engine is in warranty, it's going to be repaired for that failure, no questions asked. Besides, the gummit is on your side with the Magnuson Act which basically says that no OEM can deny warranty coverage if the maintenance schedule is adhered to and lubricants and coolants employed are within the OEM specified guidelines set forth in the Owners Manual or Shop Manual and proper documentation as to change intervals and fluids used are kept.

Oil breaks down plus it carries away and keeps in suspension contaminants from inside your engine. The larger particles are trapped by the filter media, however, what keeps your engine happy is the additive package in the oil. Your oil filter does nothing to enhance the additive package, it only filters particulate matter and only particles as small as the micron rating of the media. I'm not going to get into coolant (ethylene glycol or propylene glycol or synthetic based coolants here. This is about oil filters and, to a lesser extent, oil.

As the oil circulates in your engine, it provides boundary lubrication so you don't have metal to metal contact, provides cooling and suspends contaminants from the by-products of combustion as well as microscopic particles that rub off moving parts. As the oil gets used over and over again, it's base properties begin to deteriorate. It begins to loose it's viscosity and the additive package gets used up. That's when it's time to change the oil. The manufacturer did his homework in the engineering department. They have determined through sound engineering practice that using a lubricant specified by them (proper grade, proper additive package and API or JASO designation) and changed at the interval specified by them will insure that you have no lubrication related failures.

Now, it gets (at least for me) a bit more complex. I do spectroscopic analysis on my oil when I change it to baseline the additive package depletion as well as viscosity index (shear) degradation.

There are a number of spectroanalysis labs in the USA. I use the Caterpillar Diesel Lab in Chicago. There is one in Fort Wayne as well. All the labs have done analysis on virgin oil (unused) from every manufacturer so they know the baselines on additive packages as well as viscosity and the elemental makeup of all lubricants. I sample my oil per their instructions (all labs have pre-paid mailers with sample bottles included)...you take your sample and drop it in the mailbox and you get your analysis sheet back plus the lab will notify you if the sample contains more than the normal amounts of say chrome (which would indicate heavy ring wear) or lead (which would indicate an impending plain bearing failure). Most labs have pre-determined baselines on 12 or more contaminants that, when detected in elevated amounts, spell internal engine problems. They will also list the viscosity index baseline and how much your sample has degraded as well as additive package depletion. Cost? Usually less than 20 bucks.

Spectroanalysis can allow you to either extend your change interval or shorten it depending on your use severity and it gives you a heads up on impending internal problems before they happen. Case in point, I just had a complete new engine installed in one of my tractors (I spectroanalize all my engines, bike, tractor, car, lawnmower...everything) because the analysis showed an elevated amount of iron. Turns out I had restricted oil flow in a galley due to a manufacturing defect that starved one of the twin oil pumps in that engine, scored it and cause premature wear on the valve train. 20 bucks is cheaper than a couple grand down the road.

In summary;
+Change your oil at the manufacturers recommended interval (or sooner)....
+Use any oil fiter you want to so long as the filter meets the OEM specification.
+Use any brand of oil that you are confident in so long as the oil meets the API and/or JASO standards set forth by the manufacturer.
+Optionally, do a spectroanalisys on the oil for peace of mind.

The Prophet

Sidecar - I agree with you on the aforementioned 99.44% of this, especially on the frequency of oil changes, and overall impact of same.

We all seem to eventually decide on a favourite, which I believe is fine, just don't preach to me how it is vastly better than my choice, and significantly increases horsepower and torque, not to mention attracting the opposite sex, immediately because...

My Dad taught me, and I taught my two son's the vital importance of the life-fluids (Oil, water, brake fluids, filters, etc.) on cars and bikes, and it's refreshing to hear them repeat the mantra's. Common sense, as always, once again prevails.

Thus far, it's nice to be on this forum, as we've had as yet no one pontificating on "how it should be done", nor do we have as yet any new wave (or otherwise unfortunately misinformed) individuals that have (on other sites) thoroughly convinced me never, ever to purchase a second hand bike from a stranger!!

What do I use? No one asked...

Oh well, it IS a Forum!

Amsoil Synthetic Oil, Wix Oil Filter. Why? Because.

Lastly, and the real reason for my post - what do you guys think about the concept of these Rare Earth Magnets that fit around the outside circumference of the oil filter? The concept seems sound, and harmless, just need some experienced feedback. Supposedly, the magnets capture a significant amount of metallic particles as they pass through the filter media, and hold them against the inner wall until the filter is removed and discarded.

Makes sense to me, how about some measured comments from the field?

SidecarFlip

My measured comment is this....

Why not take a couple of alnico bar magnets (cheap and available,key word...cheap) and a couple of zip ties and fasten them to the filter housing. The housing is, well is 99% of the time HR sheet steel so it's ferrous and magnetically attracting as well. The magnets will impose their field on the filter case and a bit of residual field will penetrate the case and attract (ferrous) particles as the oil passes the walls. Having said that, there are just as many non-ferrous particles floating in there as ferrous and the magnet attraction will do nothing for the non-ferrous stuff.

Modern engines are primarily non ferrous. plain bearings are lead-indium (non -ferrous) pistons are aluminum as are most blocks today. Cams and the valve train is ferrous and the crank but most journals today are plain and most are aluminum.

You are probably be better off with a magnetic drain plug but I'd never buy one of those magnetic filter gizmo's when for a couple of bucks you can replicate the gizmo with most likely more powerful magnets and when you change filters just cut the zip ties, remove the magnets and put them on the new filter, with new zip ties of course.

The magnetic filter gizmo reminds me of the magnetic gizmo that you put over your fuel line to supposedly 'align' the molecules of fuel for a better burn....I think thats 40 bucks or so. It's got 50 cents worth of bar magnets inside a cheap plastic case and a couple of zip ties. You can do that too minus the plastic case and save yourself 39 bucks not that it will provide better fuel mileage.....It will provide your 'mind' with better mileage however.

There is one advantage to the magnetic filter wrap....If your oil filter is close to the ground and you use powerful enough magnets, you'll have one of those remote stoplight triggering devices they sell. You know, the ones that trip the light because your bike is too light to actuate the proximity sensor......

Whether those work or not, I can't say but you get two-for-one. That's a good deal even if neither are worth much.

The Prophet

Sidecar,

Sounds good. I have also seen the ads about magnets lining up the fuel molecules, but could never completely finish reading the full adverts as I had tears in my eyes from the laughter generated.

You have some very valid points about the reduction - or absence of - ferrous materials on modern engines. Excellent food for thought. My response would be that the magnets would pick up any ferrous materials from ferrous to ferrous, friction reduction by lubricant related areas (Cam lobes to followers, piston ring(s) to cylinder wall) Vs. lubrication barrier (mains, crank, etc.) areas.

Do those stoplight reacting magnetic field gizmo's really work? I was lead to believe that these were Motorcycle Myth #379! Seems to me that I've read equal amounts of pro's and con's on this, but maybe that is an average statistic of Internet forum response levels?

Anyone have real -life experience with these? I often figure maybe it's a "watched pot never boils" phenomena, leading riders to believe the light takes longer? I'm most likely wrong on this, but would like to see some feedback, as I've read some... interesting(?) theories in past forums.

Lastly, if all else fails, haven't I read in the back of magazines many adverts extolling the benefits of magnetism on the overall Human Life-Span? Will I possibly live longer? Re-grow hair? Rejuvinate vital organs? Other? Let's look at all the positive aspects of this!

Speedtrip

Damn Flip you take your oil changes serious.

SidecarFlip

Personally, I don't have the stoplight problem. My Rocket 3 is so damn heavy it trips the light sensor no problem and when I have the KLR out...I juust drive over the curb and go down the geass.....

I'm wondering if I swallow a magnet and it winds up in my urinary tract if it will give me a permanent hard on?

Seriously, I hate oil and filter threads. Manufacturers didn't spent hundreds of thousands of dollars in engineering costs to come up with recommendations for some owner to ignore because they were too cheap to get the necessary oil or filter and then when the motor shits, they cry the loudest.

I take lots of stuff seriously. It has to do with my age and the fact that I depend on engines that cost 20K. The right oil, right filters and timely changes are peace of mind, at least, for me.....Just like the stuff I make and sell on my website...If it isn't perfect, I shit can it. My tolerance for stupidity is nil.

SidecarFlip

The 3 of us and Shawn basically have this forum and site to ourselves...did I hear an echo? I suspect it won't always be this way...hopefully...

We might as well enjoy it while lasts...........

motowebmaster

We're in our own utopia for the moment, until some other folks start to chime in

When it comes to discussions regarding the right solution for a particular task or need, Flip can be like a precision tool. He doesn't have a lot of products on his website, but after a few minutes conversation you will be convinced that they represent the best alternative for the respective issues they resolve.

The Prophet

Enjoy it while it lasts indeed...

So far, excellent company to keep and communicate with. I've been an active rider since the late '60's but an internet motorcycle forum participant only for the past 1.5 years or so. I wasn't prepared at all for what I found, and it almost made me change bike brands as I was unbelievably embarassed to be part of what I experienced.

In the end, as life always seems to do, it taught me a few quick and valuable lessons:

1.) Spending time on the internet can be educational, or a total waste of time - time one will never be able to recollect.

2.) There are many, many self proclaimed mechanical "experts" on these forums, who know everything and then some about everything, and don't dare to disagree! Why they are so, and yet spend seemingly 24/7 on the internet, is an amazing mystery. You would think that they would be swamped with work, and very much in demand. Hmmm...

3.) There are a LOT of ... interesting(?) folks out there. Sometimes downright scary!

4.) Most importantly - It's only a Motorcycle, and it's only an Internet Forum. Behave as best you can, and don't take any of it too seriously. If it is making one angry, or uncomfortable, take a vacation from it, or maybe a permanent leave?

Let's have fun while we can, and trust that other like-minded folks will join us.