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Originally Posted by The Prophet  Sorry Sidecar, don't know what went wrong.  At the end of my post, where I say "And for the truly frugal"... is where the Loobman link should have been, my posting mistake. By "frugal" I mean where the smart money is going.
I agree, the Loobman is the most sensible one, and easiest to maintain as it's manual.
One note of possible, and expected, contention - new "O" ring chains may not need the constant lubrication as on the old style chains. May be best to simply keep them clean, and rust-free. That said, would it make any sense to just fill the Loobman with WD-40? Not for lubrication, but for rust prevention and cleaning?  |
I was always under the assumption that 'O' ring chains don't need external lubrication other than ocassional cleaning to remove road crud, but if you look at the box they come in, and I'll cite 'DID' Chains....On the box, it states that they need to be lubricated as well.
There is a bit of physics involved. If, in the interest of pure efficiency and fuel mileage, an 'O' ring chain is inferior over a standard non 'O' ring variety, with conventional pins, side plates and rollers simply because the frictional power losses from an 'O' ring chain are greater. A well lubricated non 'O' ring chain will last as long and transmit power more efficiently.
An 'O' ring chain must have lubrication to keep the sliding friction between the rings and the side plates to a minimum and keep the rings pliable. There are a number of documented tests on the web that confirm that, as well as recommended and non recommend lubricants and even commercially available tools for that maintenance. WD-40 is a recommended lubricant, as well as ordinary motor oil. Personally, I wipe my chain run with a shop rag and WD, with the rear wheel elevated so I can spin the chain along...carefully. That removes the crud that the oiled chain picks up...the crud is abrasive and eventually grinds away at the rings, the rings that keep the factory lubricant contained between the pins and side plates.
I've never been a fan of 'chain wax' or any proprietary stuff like that. While 'chain wax seems like a good idea outwardly, it's regular preventive maintence that extends the life, not a spray it on anfd forget it mentaility...exactly what chain wax leads one to believe.
I've never seen a chain saw manufacturer that recommends chain wax for saw chains. They all recommend high film thickness oil. Saw chains are nothing more than non 'O' ring (conventional) roller chains with teeth attached to the side plates.
A good test to see just how well you are taking care of your final drive is to remove the rear wheel and pull the chain over the countershaft sprocket and observe the chain to see if it kinks. If it's lubed properly, it will be supple. If not, it kinks because of friction between the side plates and rings and that robs power and wears the ring prematurely.
That's why I like the Loobman. It's cheap, relatively easy to install, applies lubricant (of your choice) directly where it's required via the sprocket and centrifugal force and it's positive, you give it a squeeze and visually see the oil in the transfer area between the bottle and the feed tube, and you ride off while gravity sends the lubricant down the tube to the whiskers and on to the sprocket, which spins the lube to the side plates and rings. I like simple, reliable as a stone devices. Nothing to break, nothing to wear out and cheap.
I have a lot of people ask me 'what the bottle with the brown liquid is for', especially on the KLR, where it's readily seen, attached to a subframe down tube above the swingarm next to the sidecover, to which I reply...That's my go faster juice.....KLR's need all the 'Go Faster Juice' they can get.....
