motowebmaster

There are times that I wonder if a rear brake should be added to any bike, until I'm going down a steep hill in-town and need something to modulate my speed a bit.

Other than that, the rear brake is never touched on the open road.

Speedtrip shared a video recently where a cruiser rider was using the rear brake, and even with a passenger there wasn't enough weight to keep the tire from locking up.

While we could debate the use of rear brakes on other bikes (I can see where they would be needed at times), let's find out who uses the rear brake during normal riding conditions.

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Shawn
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Speedtrip

There are just a few situations I use any rear brake. Low speed parking lot or hills at a stop. Emergency braking and only after I'm well into the front.

There are bikes that have linked brakes that will give some rear when the front is applied, I think a 70/30 split.

The next step is already here in ABS which also gives you some rear braking when the front is applied.2009 Honda CBR600RR-ABS - Motorcyclist Magazine

I've heard different preferences from racers some never touch the rear and some like to use it in trail braking.

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-Shaun-

The Prophet

I use the rear brake and the front equally when stopping, more out of habit than anything else... and balance I guess.

It's roughly 30%(?) of your stopping power, so 30% less wear on the front pads?

I've never seen an objective test run report where someone tested both against only the front for stopping ability and stability.

I have, although, seen guys flip their bike by doing a "surprise", unintended stoppie by slamming on the front brake only! Is braking the steering and directional wheel only the best way to stop? I think slowing down, and shaving forward momentum off of the "driving", locked directional wheel is a good thing.

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• A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving. ~Lao Tzu
• Motorcyles are not my whole life, but they make my life whole. ` me

Speedtrip

another link

Motorcycle Braking: 15 Questions and Answers - webBikeWorld

Speedtrip

Heres a vid from Washington State on the quick stop.

YouTube - Motorcycle Skills Test: Part 3 (cc)

The Prophet

Are we asking multiple questions here?

First post was talking about the rear brake being used at all, or should it be eliminated.

Now we are talking about dire emergency stops.

Two totally different scenarios I opine.

I agree 100% with "Staged Braking" for everyday riding.

Now we have evolved into a discussion about Emergency Braking. Another different subject in my opinion.

To paraphrase the Video Instructor -"If you are needing to use emergency stop tactics often, you are reacting too slow."

Could also be a difference in riding position, dependent on bike style - Sport bikes have the rider tilted forward, placing more weight on the front. Cruiser and touring bikes have the rider upright, not so much weight shifted forward.

I'll stick with: Everyday riding - Staged Braking, smooth, slow stops. Emergency Braking? Try to avoid the need through careful planning, but perhaps more front brake than back? 70% "squeeze" on the front, 30% "squeeze" on the rear? (Controlled squeeze).

I'm a big proponent of "smooth" riding (and car driving). Smooth, gradual acceleration (and decelleration), smooth as silk shifts, smooth, fluid like steering, smooth beautifully arced turns, smooth gradual stops. The vehicle, and rider(!) last much longer that way, and it takes considerably more skill to ride "smooth" and fluid like, than to jackrabbit start, jerky shift, weave through turns, and slam on the brakes.

I believe the Instructor commented on this somewhat in his comments about the "controlled squeeze" of the brake lever(s). That is what I call "Staged Braking".

Panic Braking - Surviving the Streets - Motorcycle Cruiser

Motorcycle Braking - Motorcycle Safety Information and Resources

Ride... smooth?

SidecarFlip

Shawn.....Maybe you should add a poll.

I find that I sell more rear pads than front's which tells me something. It tells me that people don't employ proper braking technique, which, in my humble opinion, isn't relying on the front brake alone either.

It's very true that the Cg moves forward on decelleration, placing 70% or so of the tractive effort (braking friction between the tire and pavement surface) on the front tire/brake but, relying on the front brake alone can and will put you on your ass in short order, especially if braking in a turn and getting on either the edge of the road or across the middle, where, small stones and road debris lie in wait of your bike.

When you apply the brakes progressively (or have an ABS assisted proportional braking system), the modulation of the front and rear effectively moves the Cg from the centerline of the steering stem, to a more balanced point behind the stem, under the fuel tank.

On bone dry, clean pavement, straight line stops, total front application works. On less than ideal surfaces, progressive application must be employed or you are flirting with a trip to the ER to partake in the dreaded 'Iodine Scrub and Abraiding'. The technique you feel but of course the nurse don't. Why take the chance. Besides, it's hard on the bike bodywork as well.

I'll keep on using the front and back brakes in porportion to the road surface.

I've been to and graduated from the Eaton Corporation School of Defensive and Emergency Driving Techniques. At Eaton they teach you to perform controlled stops in less than ideal conditions and you get to do it first hand in real world conditions on and in various vehicles on their test track. It's an eye opening (and butt tightening) experience.

One thing I learned and did first hand was 'threshold braking'. Threshold braking is what ABS is all about. ABS modulates the rotation at a point where traction breaks and the wheel stops rotating and skids. Using a Hall Effect sensor, the ABS computer senses the non rotation and reduces the hydraulic pressure applied to the brake shoes/pads, allowing the wheel to resume rotation and then applies the pressure again to the point of non-rotation, many times per second.

You can do the same thing with a little practice and judicious application of both brakes. You apply the brakes to the point where the tires 'howl'. That noise will be present on wet and dry road conditions. When they 'howl', you are at the fine point of locking the wheel. Holding the brakes at tire howl is the maximum tractive decelleration that the tire/pavement will allow without lockup.

Go practice it. You'll be amazed.

Just my opinion. Been there and done that.

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MIA